I've been thinking about creating an EV3 Strider Ver 2, but to handle the increased weight and width Strider needs to be improved in a few ways, like by increasing the amount of foot-contact it has with the ground.
One way to increase foot-contact is to add four more legs. To check how this would smooth the gait I simulated one side of a 12-legged Strider (Ver 2), and if you watch the video below you'll see Strider bounce whenever the feet touching the ground switch. This bouncing shouldn't be much of a problem at LEGO scale, but it would be at large scale.
While a scaled-up Strider's linkage could be optimized for a smoother gait, it can also be smoothed by adding feet that are shaped to offset the gait's bumpiness. As an example, in the second half of the video I added small triangular feet to the front legs, which act like heels and toes. These feet reduce the gait's bumpiness by about 1/3rd. However, the toes are more likely to catch on obstacles, which can cause the linkage to lock and gears to grind.
The gait of Strider Ver 3 can also be smoothed by adding toes:
You can find a half dozen other variations of Strider's linkage that can be smoothed by adding toes on Strider's Linkage Optimizer page, like this:
Feet with curved bottoms that are shaped to offset the bumpiness of a particular linkage should be even more effective at smoothing gaits - at least when walking on smooth ground.
Here's Strider Ver 3 in a LEGO prototype with the above simulated toes:
And here's the same Strider linkage with 8 legs plus longer toes of length 3 and a short heel of length 1:
Scott Anderson has taken TrotBot to a new level. In addition to using modern Maker tools and gear, Scott reduced TrotBot's width by printing leg parts that link in-line, strengthened the upper leg parts by printing them as bend-resistant triangles, and added those cool hinged feet!
Scott's shares how he created his TrotBot here.
I rushed my Klann Ver 2 build and didn't build the outer frames in an optimal way:
The only thing keeping this frame's corners at right angles are the two 3x5 L-shaped LEGO parts. If this frame were put under a lot of force, like would happen at a larger scale, the corners would be subjected to torque that could easily cause the rectangle to collapse. To avoid this diagonals need to be added, which will convert the rectangles into triangles and lock the corner's angles.
The challenge with walkers in LEGO is we often need diagonals for rectangles that define the linkage's parameters. In other words, these diagonals often need to be the hypotenuses of right triangles. As you can see below, my Klann's upper support rods are 7 holes above the motor's axle, and the lower support rods are 2 holes below the motor's axle. Neither of these lengths work with a 3-4-5 or 6-8-10 right triangle with LEGO parts for hypotenuses. What can we do using the integer lengths of LEGO's beams?
NOTE: When determining the length of LEGO beams the first hole is always counted as 0! If you don't measure LEGO beam lengths in this way you won't be able to use the Pythagorean theorem to calculate which beams to use as hypotenuses.
Fortunately, with LEGO we don't have to be at precise integer numbers, and we can use hypotenuses that are close enough.
1. Hypotenuses for rectangles of height 7.
Plugging in a 90 degree angle with a side length of 7, plus a few other whole number sides into the Pythagorean theorem yields this near integer number triangle:
I used this triangle for Klann's inner frame where two 9 hole beams create hypotenuses of length 8:
I also used this triangle for TrotBot's frame:
2. Hypotenuses for rectangles of height 9.
We can also connect the top and bottom beams of Klann's frame with a hypotenuse:
Plugging a 90 degree angle with a side length of 9, plus a few other whole number sides into the Pythagorean theorem yields another near integer number triangle:
So, 13 hole LEGO beams can be used to lock Klann's outer frames into triangles, like this:
Here are a few other useful triangles for LEGO frames:
Also, the below 5-3 bent beam can be used as a hypotenuse.
You can create more triangles by lengthening a side of the above parts by attaching a LEGO beam to it.
The first result of that effort was TrotBot's heel linkage. As you can see below, TrotBot's heel strikes before the main foot, resulting in a smoother gait and lower power requirements (for an analogy of why bumpy gaits require more power, think how much harder it is to do lunges than it is to simply walk).
Another benefit of TrotBot's heel is it steps higher on the backside of the foot-path, allowing TrotBot's rear legs to step about as high as the front legs to avoid getting stuck astride obstacles, as can be seen in this heel-path simulation:
Without its heel, TrotBot's rear legs probably would have gotten stuck on some of these 2x4s:
Klann's ability to clear obstacles is also improved by adding a claw-like heel to the inner side of it's legs:
We've also played around with a few ideas for active toes that push down on the ground as the foot begins to lift:
Smoothing gaits with shaped feet is explored in Feet Part 2
Catweazel, AKA Michael Leefers, was kind enough to create computer-rendered instructions for building TrotBot in LEGO, and share them with us! Instead of using 3/16" aluminum rods to prevent TrotBot's inner frame from sagging, Catweazel cleverly added a Technic beam to connect the inner frame to the outer frame, which helps to prevent the plastic support axles from bowing. This is the same solution I was planning on using for the support rods of my large bamboo TrotBot - great stuff!
You can access or download Catweazel's instructions and efficiently purchase parts via his Rebrickable page. Thank you Mr. Leefers!
Over my break I ran some optimization code to improve Strider's footpath. Here's how Strider ver 2 looks:
And here's a sample of a LEGO version walking:
I kept this as an entry-level build with only one motor. Build instructions are here
When two linked bars are nearly parallel their connecting joint can easily flip orientations and cause the linkage to lock. This phenomena is known as a "Dead Point", "Toggle Point", or "Singularity". Here's an example of what Klann Ver 1 experienced, since it used a configuration of the linkage where the "knee" joint came close to being straight :
The below right picture is near the Dead Point, where two bars highlighted in red are nearly parallel:
Due to the force on the foot, the joint can hyper-extend and "flip" as shown below, which causes the linkage to lock::
Like how animal joint hyper-extension is prevented by structures like ligaments and elbow bones, linkage joint hyper-extension can be prevented by adding structure.
Below are some examples of joint "hyper-extension blockers" in LEGO.
The following solution for Klann Ver 1 blocked the joint from flipping with the addition of a 2-hole red LEGO beam:
Dead-Points are also know as "change points", which all Parallelogram linkages have:
As shown below, Strandbeest has (nearly) a parallelogram linkage in the center of the mechanism, and its knee joint can also flip:
Strider's knee joint also has a dead point that needs to be managed. As you can see in the following simulation, Strider's knee joint hyper-extends inward during the weight-bearing phase of the crank's rotation:
Adding weight to Strider robots can cause the knee joint to hyper-extend further, which can either reduce the height of the leg, resulting in a bumpier gait, or cause the joint to flip.
As shown in the image below, Strider Ver 3 uses blue LEGO pins to limit knee hyper-extension, which work well at LEGO-scale weights, but when heavy loads are added to Strider, these blue pins bend and the gait gets bumpier.
In the following experiment we added stronger "hyper-extension blockers" to a Strider robot using Linkage Variation #6, which we tested with a 25 pound load. The blue pins were still used, but an additional part was added to the front of the knee that presses against the shin if the knee hyper-extends too far.
Below is a video of the test. Notice when the weight is initially placed onto Strider, the inner knee on the right side hyper-extends slightly, but not enough to prevent Strider from lumbering under the 25 pound load:
Note: before performing this test, the plastic LEGO axles were replaced with steel axles to handle the torque. Other than that, and the 2 steel support rods, all of the parts are plastic LEGO parts connected by LEGO pins (no glue).
Below shows how we managed Strider Ver 2's dead point:
Below is another possible solution that uses an additional linkage on the inside of the joint that allows the knee joint to bend toward the robot, but prevents bending away from the robot.
Below is another idea for a Strider robot using linkage variation #4:
Welcome to DIYWalkers! I'm Ben Vagle, and I've been building mechanical walkers since I was 11 years old, both big and small. I started this blog to share what I've learned, and to collaborate with you. Let's see if we can take walkers to the next level!